Wave Watching: Trip to Torö Beach for Two

I’ve wanted to go see Torö, Sweden as soon as I heard about it – about 6 years ago. Last Sunday we finally made it!

It’s the only place where the waves are big enough to surf in Sweden (on the east coast anyway). And it’s 2 hours from where we live. Yippee.
Waves is a relative term - when compared to the flat as a tack Stockholm Archipelago and the Baltic Sea (most of the time) a one foot swell is very exciting. And Torö beach (stenstrand or stone beach in swedish) really is so pristine and unique. 
Interestingly, I thought the waves would be huge walking towards the beach as the sound of the waves was so loud. Maybe the stones somehow magnify the sound?

We walked from the bus stop and made a couple of wrong turns. Luckily a couple of people happened to be in the middle of nowhere - so we got on the right track. 
It’s actually quite simple once you know. 

If you’re on the bus you can get off at the last stop on Torö -Ankarudden and turn right. On the main road in Torö above.

Torö surf beach is in a national park but the actual beach is quite small, as on both sides are private beaches. I was quite surprised by this as there’s a ‘right to roam’ in Sweden. You can camp anywhere. 
But it appears that many people own sections of the beach, just where the waves come in. There is no cafe or anything here except public toilets and car park. Luckily we bought a picnic lunch.

Supposedly the waves are best in winter but you’re talking about seriously cold, icy conditions. Even in late summer everyone had wetsuits on. And it’s not easy surfing. The ground is covered with large and small stones. And they are quite uncomfortable to walk on.


It was actually a beautiful sunny day with an onshore breeze. Perfect conditions. About 12 degrees. No, not warm but this is the swedish summer. You take what you get. 
We left at 9am from Stockholm T-Centralen so by the time we got there 2 hours later, there was about 10 people surfing and 50 people on the beach. When we left there was a line of cars coming in. 

Such a unique beach. The fresh air, the stones, the distant rocky islands. I thought I'd add a texture to this photo to carry the stony theme into the sky. 

The nature reserve entrance.

We walked past this dilapidated, old shack on the main dirt road to the surf beach. The area around the beach is mainly pine trees (tallar in swedish) though there are many more deciduous trees such as oak and maple on Torö than in Stockholm.

The stones my be uncomfortable to walk on, but they're pretty to look at. The larger, smooth grey rocks characteristic of the swedish landscape (below called klippa in swedish) I’ve come to love.




How to Get to Torö by public transport


To get to Torö is quite straight forward. You need to get to Nynäshamn station,which is the last stop on the Nynäshamn line which you can get on from Stockholm T-Centralen.

Then get the Torö bus (bus 852) from Nynäshamn station. The Torö bus only comes every 2 hours on weekends in summer, (once an hour during the week) but less in winter.

So you need your timetables - which you can really only get from the SL shop in T-centralen - though you can read everything online on the SL site).


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